Antique & Vintage Jewelry: Signatures - Grams & Pennyweights
 Antique Jewelry, Estate Jewelry and Vintage Costume Jewelry: Signed vs. Unsigned:
A signed piece of jewelry by a recongized maker or designer will probably command a higher price than a similar unsigned piece of jewelry. Costume jewlery by Kenneth Jay Lane is sought after because his mark signifies artistic appeal, unique designs and quality. Antique or contemporary jewelry by Tiffany & Cartier has great design, but value is added from their use of the best quality gem stones, and high karat gold or platinum. Still, a signature does not necessarily make jewlery either desirable or valuable: even the best designers are subject to aesthetic mistakes.
Other factors can also increase the desirability of designer jewelry; these include an interesting provenance or a specific period or style that enjoys current vogue. Even if the designer is not currently well known a signature can mean limited production, one of a kind, or hand-made jewelry. Along with good design these are factors that can raise the value of a piece of jewelry.
Should you buy a piece for jewelry because of the signature?
The best advice is always "buy what you love".
Jewelry Weight: What's a Gram?
For reference one gram of gold is slightly more than 1/30th of an ounce. One pennyweight is equal to 1/20th of an ounce.
The weight of a piece of jewelry, in grams or pennyweights, can be an indication of it's quality. Generally, you can expect to pay more for jewelry if it has significant weight. Heavier pieces jewelry have more precious metal content.
When dealers price fine antique & estate jewlery silver or gold weight is one factor. However, a heavy piece of jewelry with no style and bad condition is not worth more than a beautiful piece with great craftsmanship and artistry.
Finally, if the piece of jewlery is going to be worn every day, like a wedding band, heavier pieces of jewelry are usually more durable.
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