Guide to Buying Antique & Vintage Jewelry - Tips, What to Look Out For and Need to Know.

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Guide to Buying Vintage Jewelry

Antique & Vintage Fine Jewelry and Glass Stones:

A considerable amount of antique fine jewelry has glass stones. So although the setting is 10K or 14K gold, this is no guarantee the stone(s) are gem stones. Glass stones are beautiful and flawless. However, in spite of their beauty and value, they are worth much less than real gem stones.

When buying vintage or antique jewelry, make sure the seller has tested the stones. Ask how the stones are tested. A gemological refractometer is considered by many to be the most important of all gem testing instruments. A refractometer measures the angle at which light travels through the stone as it is bent or refracted.

The seller does not need to be an independent certified gemologist, but they need to have an association with one. Affordable Vintage Jewelry uses the services of New England Gemological Laboratory to test select pieces. Make sure you are buying from a reputable and knowledgeable dealer!

Antique & Vintage Jewelry Condition:

Get a 10X jewelers loupe (a magnifying glass for examining jewelry). This will allow you to really see the piece in detail. Open the loupe and place it close to the eye. Then bring the piece of jewelry within 3 or four inches of the loupe and focus by moving the item closer or farther away.

What are you looking for?

  • Repairs - repairs are not necessairily a bad thing. Most jewelry dating prior to 1850 has been repaired. A well-done repair should be almost unnoticeable.

  • Damaged Stones - To the naked eye, or in bad light, many stones can look like they are in good condition. Inspection with a loupe can reveal scratches and chips. Carefully examine prong set jewelry to see if the area under the prong is chipped. This can happen when a stone is tightened or replaced. Also look at the edges of the stones. This is the most likely place where chips can occur. This type of damage can happen not only to colored gem stones but to diamonds too. Yes, even a diamond can be scratched or chipped.

  • Missing Stones - In jewelry pieces with many small stones a single missing stone can easily be overlooked.

  • Condition of the setting - engagement rings with filigree settings can often be damaged on one side, the side which rested next to the wedding band. If it's relevant, look closely at the prongs that hold the stones. Are they worn down to the edge of the stone or to the point that they barely touch the stone? Are some prongs missing?

    These are some of the most common things to look for when buying an older or antique piece of jewelry. Look before you buy! When buying antique and estate jewelry online make sure the seller has a "no questions asked" return policy.

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